Wild Camping, Bowfell

Our exclusive view

It was time to bring out the one man tents and plan a wild camp. I was and still am, suffering from a horrendous cold. 'Man Flu' may be a more apt description depending on how you feel about these things. I had a last minute change of mind and was going to head out to a National Trust Campsite, however Matthew told me to take some pills and get on with it.

I scoured the maps and came up with Angle Tarn on Bowfell. There seemed to be quite a few potential pitch sites around the Tarn.

I was using the Vango Helium 100SL for my tent. Matthew opted for his Gelert Solo. Both were to be tested to their absolute limits.

I checked the weather via the very useful Met Office Twitter page. The forecast was to be a dry start, becoming gradually windier and wetter towards the evening. That was to be a massive understatement.

As always on a wild camp, I intended to take as little as possible. I managed to get my pack size and weight to a respectable level.

My world

I was meeting Matthew in Booths, Windermere. On arrival, I had fifteen minutes to spare so a wander round the aisles added a few kilos to my pack weight in the form of a bottle of Shiraz and Coniston Bluebird. There was also the amusing spectacle of the general manager being 'arrested' for charity by the local Constabulary in order to raise funds for the air ambulance.

Matthew arrived and a £3.95 four item breakfast was in order. A quick stop in Ambleside to pick up an extra Wayfarer meal and we were soon on the road to Great Langdale.

Hobgoblin at the Stickle Barn Tavern

It was impossible to drive past the Stickle Barn Tavern without popping in to sample some beer. Matthew and I both opted for a Hobgoblin. Lovely in draft form and very different from its bottled counterpart. The early morning sun was quite warm and there were quite a few people sat outside.

New Dungeon Ghyll hotel from Sticklebarn

It would have been easy to spend a few hours sat here, however we needed to find somewhere suitable to park and make a start. There was space in the lay by near the Rossett Bridge and soon we were walking towards the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

Start of the walk, Matthew weighed down !

Matthew had never visited the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel before so it was only right that I introduced him to this particular Lakeland Gem.

Old Peculiar at the Old Dungeon Ghyll

Two pints of Old Peculiar and we were off. We followed the path from the Dungeon Ghyll, part of the Cumbria Way towards Bowfell. This was a classic glacial valley with steep imposing peaks on all sides.

The weather was gradually worsening, grey clouds began to drift across the formerly blue sky. The wind was also beginning to pick up.

Matthew heading into the valley head

We crossed over the beck and headed up towards Rossett Pike which can be seen to the right of the col in the above picture.

Our route up followed a zig zag path towards the Col

Looking back down Great Langdale

Eventually, we reached the Col and were rewarded with a fine view of the flanks of Bowfell and our camp site for the night, Angle Tarn.

Angle Tarn

Some light snow had fallen on the upper most slopes. The temperature by now had fallen to two degrees. Factor  in the wind chill and it was pretty cold. We descended to the Tarn to try and find a suitable place to pitch our tents.

On reflection, this was our first mistake. Opting for the view instead of shelter ultimately led to the worst night I have ever spent under a piece of canvas in my entire life. In our defence, the wind had been blowing to from the left of the above picture, so we were afforded some protection by the slopes of the Col.

Once the tents were pitched, it was approaching 17:00. I was starting to feel very ill. I downed more medication. It began to sleet and as there was no protection, it was either a case of lie down inside the tiny tent or get very cold and wet.

The Helium 100 SL (right above pic) is too small to safely cook in. Any flare ups would immediately reduce the flimsy fabric to a shrivelled mess. I had brought my Jetboil Flash and two Wayfarers meals. I was very hungry so started up the Flash outside the tent. The wind had really picked up so I used my body as a wind shield. Gas canister performance was reduced in the cold weather and it took about 6 minutes to achieve a rolling boil. I opted for the Chilli Con Carne and Rice. This was a 'new' version with increased protein and carbohydrate. Matthew had chosen his MSR Pocket Rocket and Seagull pan set. I thought he would struggle with the lack of wind shield on an open type stove but it performed surprisingly well, on a par if not surpassing the performance of the Jetboil. He cooked up some Cous Cous & Mackerel.

With spirits slightly lifted, we turned our thoughts to reinforcing our tents. We found some suitable rocks and placed these on top of all pegging points. The supplied pegs with the Helium 100 are practically useless in all but the lightest of winds. Tonight, they would not hold on their own.

Freezing cold

Suddenly, a massive gust of wind called time on any outside of tent activity. I entered my fabric coffin and hoped the weather would pass. It began to snow and the wind and rain lashed the side of my tent at a deafening level. The gusts were so strong that my tent was blowing completely flat at times, squashing me inside. If you were claustrophobic this would have been your worst nightmare. A particularly strong gust ripped the rear peg out and the tent crumpled around me. The rain and hail stung as it slammed against the fabric and into my face. Matthew had seen what had happened and quickly helped in re-pegging and covering with the rock. I felt too ill to get out of my tent and was shivering hopelessly in my sleeping bag.

Time really dragged. The wind began to increase and I honestly thought that the tent would be destroyed. The light gradually faded and the rain and sleet grew more until it was being blown horizontally under the flysheet. The noise was deafening, the tent fabric acting like a giant diaphragm in the wind. Conversation was impossible due to the noise levels.

From about 18:00 to 03:20, I lay mostly awake hoping that the tent would hold out. Sleep was near impossible.

It was the worst night I have ever spent in a tent. Exhausted, sleep deprived, soaking wet and becoming more ill I hoped that morning would arrive soon.

Eventually, the faint morning light began to penetrate through the fabric of the tent. A quick watch check confirmed it was 05:55. My sleeping bag was damp through condensation and rain being blown in through the air vent. My head was pounding and I needed food. I couldn't face getting out of the tent so somehow managed to boil up a Wayfarers Beans & Sausages in the minuscule porch without setting myself on fire or dying from carbon monoxide poisoning.

Matthew was still awake and had not slept all night either. By some miracle it stopped raining. This was a window of opportunity to get packed away.

The massive amount of rainfall had created some new waterfalls which were not present the evening before.

Bag packed and soaking wet, I felt awful. We had a quick check around to make sure we had left no sign of our stay and set off back to Great Langdale.

Looking back towards Great Langdale

The unrelenting descent took its toll on our knees with every step, made worse by the wet and heavy packs.

I was glad to reach the valley floor and reach firm and stable ground. The walk at this point was fairly pleasant. A cool breeze helped to dry off our outer layers. We soon reached our cars and changed into some clean and dry clothes. 

I did enjoy the 'adventure' aspect of this trip. With hindsight I would have preferred a low level camp at a commercial site. 

At the time of writing this blog, it is now three days since our trip. I am suffering from full blown man flu. 

I must comment on the Gelert Solo. For a £30 tent, it performed impeccably. The low profile ensured the brunt of the wind simply flowed over. Small yes. Comfortable, probably not. If however you need to depend on shelter in the worst of conditions, I would not hesitate to recommend the Solo. My Helium 100 SL cost nearly £200, suffered a torn guy line and caught the wind like a kite. This trip also served to highlight the importance of selecting a good location in which to pitch your tent. We chose a ridiculously exposed spot, next to sloping ground. The result of which nearly ended in 3am disaster and flooded ground. 

I have no intention to repeat the above. The next wild camp will be in Summer. 

Thank you for reading. 

Next Trip: 17th & 18th March

Next walk - Wild Camp, Cumbria Way

Just a quick update......

I'm heading off to the Cumbria Way tomorrow. Only a small section and then up to Bowfell. Staying the night at Angle Tarn in the Helium 100 SL.

I turned 30 yesterday so need to add some Lake District celebration.

The weather looks unpredictable. Today in Lancashire is pretty cold, the forecast for the Lakes tomorrow is wintry showers and possibly strong winds towards the late evening. 

As always, prepare for a full trip report including a visit to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. 

Buttermere, March 2011

Pre Walk Stop at Thirlmere, Helvellyn behind. From left to right; Me, Michael Walsh & my uncle, Peter Cottle

In all my years walking in the Lake District, I had never paid a visit to Buttermere. Having read most of Wainwrights' Fell Guides and knowing about his final resting place on Innominate Tarn; I decided that we had to go. 

It was March, 2011. The weather was mild and we had persuaded Pete to come which would mean hilarious laughs in the Pub that night. 

Looking towards Haystacks with High Stile Ridge to the right

I had chosen Syke Farm Campsite as our base. The location was excellent, nestled in the heart of Buttermere and conveniently placed for the both the Fish and Bridge Hotel. This is one of the most scenic camp sites I had ever experienced. Facilities however were pretty poor, a small outhouse type building served as a toilet block. As always, that didn't bother me however may cause problems if you are camping with a family. 

We pitched our tent next to a stream which was very picturesque. I had brought along the Vango Equinox 350 for some extra room if the weather were to turn bad. 

We got the tent up in no time. My cousin Matthew was meeting us a bit later on so it was time to get down to serious business - beer. 

Pete in his element

Natural Fridge

This stream was literally five feet from our tent. We had left the first beers in it to cool down whilst we were putting up the tent. Now it was time to savour the first one in the fresh Lake District air whilst taking in the amazing views. Sheer relaxation. 

Heading to the Fish Hotel

With the first beers drunk, it was time to sample the local pubs. Matthew still hadn't arrived so we had some time to kill. I'm always excited to visit a new Lake District pub. Surrounded by high peaks on all sides, this was one of the most atmospheric parts of the Lakes I had visited so far. 

First Pint in the 'Fish'

As I'm writing this nearly a year on, I can't remember what this first beer was. It was nice and pale, with a lasting hoppy finish. We were however struck a blow by the barman who told us after the first pint that he was closing ! It was about 2pm ! Apparently at this time of year, there are limited opening hours, something to bear in mind if planning to eat here. The views from the pub are great, looking out across Buttermere and beyond. There is also a nice beer garden which I can imagine is extremely busy in the Summer months. 

Matthew, Pete & I

Matthew arrived and set up his tent. They can be seen in the background, the stream providing a relaxing soundtrack. It was too early to start serious drinking so we decided on a short walk to explore our surroundings. 

We headed towards Crummock Water. The steep west flanks of Mellbreak can be seen in the above picture.

Pete, with Mellbreak rising from Crummock Water

An interesting lake side copse 

Shortly after the taking of the above picture, my uncle Pete fell unceremoniously into Crummock Water in sheer panic at watching his Son in such a precarious and life threatening situation.

Clearly it was time to head back to the tents and dry off (for some of us). 

Bridge Hotel, "Walkers Bar"

With the Fish closed, we headed to our only option, the Walkers Bar of the Bridge Hotel. Very nice it was too. Slate floors, real fires and a fine selection of real ales from many local breweries. I started off with a couple of pints of Black Sheep. We were all hungry by now and the menu had a good selection of local dishes. 

After a nice evening in the pub listening to Pete's funny tales, it was time to head back to the tents. Since changing roles in my job, I have trouble with my lower back which makes sleeping on an air bed nearly impossible. That could only mean one thing, consult Pete and ask for some medication. Pete is an avid tablet fan. You name it, he has it. He recommended some dihydrocodeine 

What followed was sheer terror. I woke up an hour later drenched in sweat with a feeling that I was going to die. It was horrendous. Every time I closed my eyes it felt like I was plummeting into the depths of hell. This continued for about two hours until the effects wore off. Not recommended and wont be repeated. 

The next morning, I awoke with a sore back, having had about three hours sleep to an amazing scene:

Buttermere

It was a perfect morning. The air was cold and crisp and the above picture was the view out of my tent. 

Campers Breakfast

After a quick breakfast we set off. The route I had chosen was to head along the shores of Buttermere and climb up to the summit of High Stile. We would then walk south along the ridge to High Crag and Haystacks.

Team photo at the start

Soon we began to ascend the flanks of High Stile. We followed the path as it turned right and steeply up into  Burtness Comb.

Approaching Burtness Comb with Fleetwith Pike in the background

Southern Shore of Buttermere

Pete needed a medication stop and we took advantage of the break to take in the amazing views across Buttermere.

Crummock Water 

We soon reached the summit of High Stile

White Cove from High Stile summit

The views today were amazing with high cloud levels and excellent visibility.

Eagle Crag on the right, looking down towards Buttermere

Pillar

Looking across Ennerdale, snow still lingered in some of the gullies on the western face of Pillar

Lunch Time

We walked south along the ridge and on reaching the 744m summit of High Crag stopped for lunch. Wayfarers Beef Stew & Dumplings cooked nicely in my MSR Reactor stove.

Ennerdale Valley looking towards the Gables & Scafell group

We were rewarded with amazing views across Ennerdale looking toward Great Gable to Scafell Pike.

Haystacks

Time was running away as we had spent so long admiring the views from the ridge. Our plan had been to continue to the summit of Haystacks however it was decided that we would save this for another time. We turned left off the ridge and headed down Buttermere Fell back towards the lake path.

The Buttermere Pines

In the above picture, you can just about make out the famous 'Buttermere Pines' on the far side of the stream.

The final section of path down to lake level. Haystacks can be seen in the background. We stopped for a customary post walk beer at the Bridge Hotel. The late afternoon sun was surprisingly warm in the beer garden as we talked about the great walk we had just completed.

This remains the only time that I have visited Buttermere. It is a very atmospheric part of the Lake District and I would like to complete the ridge walk in full winter conditions. Everyone really enjoyed this walk. Excellent views, scenic camp site and good pubs made for a great experience.

It is time to plan my next trip and I feel a map of Buttermere coming out  .........

Thank you for reading