Dove Crag, 4th January 2014

The first trip of 2014 was to one of our regular campsites, Sykeside in Brotherswater. The weather had been very bad over the last couple of days, with storms coupled with high spring tides leading to flooding in many areas.

Luckily the weather seemed okay as my alarm went off at 0600 on my day off! Grey and murky with steady rain.

As is customary, a quick stop off at Booths in Windermere provided a reasonable and filling cooked breakfast along with other supplies for the walk.

We arrived at Sykeside around 10:00 and began to set up the tent. In the event of high winds and worsening weather, I had brought the Mountain Hardwear Trango 2.

Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 (old version)

The ground was saturated as is usual for this time of year. The main part of the campsite was closed with only small areas of higher ground available but this was more than adequate for our needs. There were no other people here and we had the site all to ourselves.

Me, Mountain Equipment 'Changabang' & Satmap Active 10

I had decided on a short route, up through Dovedale aiming for Priest's Hole for lunch, then over to High Hartsop Dodd and back to the site. After a short wait for Matthew, we set off into the rain.

Matthew & Michael

We walked through the campsite and turned left at a local farm making our way up the valley of Dovedale.

Dovedale Beck in full flow

We slowly made our way up towards the steeper part of the ascent to Priest's Hole. A fellow walker who had come up from the other side told us that there was heavy snow falling above 700 metres so we quickened our pace to intercept it!

No sign of snow yet

The approach up to Priests Hole looked very gloomy. Visibility was poor and without good map reading skills and / or GPS, I think you would struggle to find it on a day like this. I won't be giving away any secrets as I've read it's frowned upon to pinpoint the exact location (even though you can just use your eyes).

Heading up into the gloom

At last we arrived and began to reach the snow level.

Matthew at the approach to the cave

It was nice to see the first snow of the year for us. The path was frozen and you didn't want to stand too close to any edges......

Beer belly providing insulation

Poor visibility and difficult terrain

Priest's Hole was clean, no rubbish had been left as has been the case on other occasions. Lots of graffiti though adorning the walls which I'm not a fan of.

It was time for a well earned lunch break. Having sat down and stopped moving, the cold began to bite. Michael had brought a bottle of Mulled Wine up with him which he heated up in the Jetboil.

Inside the cave, preparing for hot mulled wine

Mulled Wine !

I don't think there are many better places to enjoy some hot mulled wine, looking out across the snow covered crags and into the grey murkiness below.

Suitably warmed up - note graffiti above !

Soon it was time to continue up to the summit of Dove Crag and head back out into the snow. The wind was beginning to pick up so it was time to make a move.

Tricky ground with steep drops below

We began to climb up toward the summit plateau. The wind had really picked up by now and exposed skin was feeling the pain.

Approaching the summit

The visibility remained poor as we reached the summit and traversed along toward High Hartsop Dodd.

Cold !

After the first snowball fight of 2014, we carried on towards High Hartsop Dodd.

Brotherswater in the distance with Kirkstone Pass to the right

As we descended, we gradually left the snow and ice behind. I slipped on the grass and landed full force on my right hand side - my jacket is now a different colour:

One side of me was black

Having regained my composure and stopped swearing at the grass we continued our descent, spurred on by thoughts of the fire and real ale at the Brotherswater Inn.

Nearly Pub time

The descent seemed to go on forever. I'm either getting older or heavier and my knees don't have the same shock absorbing properties as they once did !

Looking back at Dove Crag

We were soon back to the tent. Matthew was staying under his tarp so began to set up. 

Matthew reunited with his iPhone

Matthew realised that he had lost his iPhone somewhere on the route. After a frantic hour of searching he gave up hope. We tried ringing the phone in the pub and it rang out a few times, then went straight to answerphone. It was not looking good. 'Find my iPhone' didn't work. Matthew was on the verge of suicide, we tried one last time to ring the phone and it was answered by a lady who had found it and taken it back home to Burton on Kendal. Matthew was straight off to collect it. Thanks very much to the honest person who did that.

Homebrew by candlelight

Matthew had brought along a keg of his 5% homebrew so we had a few glasses of that under the now clear sky before heading back to the pub for a few more pints. 

Woodfords' Wherry

Brotherswater Inn Christmas Tree

Serious face

After a good meal in the Inn and a few pints whilst warming up by the fire, it was time to head back to the tents and finish off the home brew. The sky was completely clear and the stars were amazing given the cold air. The Andromeda Galaxy could just be made out with a naked eye. 

It was time to retire to the tent and after a good nights sleep, head home before the next Atlantic storm rolled in. 

A great start to 2014, fingers crossed for some proper winter weather to come! My coat is still not clean.

Happy New Year !

Great Langdale, December 2012

It was the first 'cold snap' of Winter. Temperatures were predicted to fall below freezing and there was even a weather warning on my iPad weather app. An ideal time to pack up the tent and head to the hills.

National Trust Great Langdale campsite

The drive up was easy as it was midweek. As is tradition, a quick stop off in Booths for breakfast meant there was a small delay in setting off. I purchased a bottle of 'Pendle Witch' beer by Moorhouses. This is usually on tap at the Pendle Inn in Barley, Lancashire and is very nice indeed. 

We arrived at the campsite just after ten, paid our dues and set up camp. The campsite was very quiet as is to be expected at this time of year. The only intrusion was from a Robin which proceeded to empty its bowels every minute using my tent as a toilet. Every year I visit an NT campsite in December and there is always a cheeky resident Robin.

Looking towards the Langdale Pikes. New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel on left

There was a stiff breeze which had a good bit of bite to it even at valley level. Exposed ears suffered immediately so it was hats on from the start today. We headed up past Stickle Barn Tavern and began the climb up following Stickle Ghyll. 

Stickle Ghyll

Path to Stickle Tarn

The path remains as in the above photograph, simple to follow to the level of Stickle Tarn. Views today were spectacular, with visibility to the Irish Sea & beyond.

Contender for Trail magazine Face of Fatigue ?

Looking back down towards Great Langdale & beyond

A little bit of scrambling on the way up provided some amusement and comedy pose opportunities......

Stickle Tarn

We soon reached a very cold Stickle Tarn. The wind chill was horrendous and the right clothing was definitely required. Anyone in the 'jeans brigade' would have quickly been in serious trouble up here.

A light dusting of snow can be seen on the tops

A quick traverse around the Tarn was needed to reach our lunch spot.

The Beast of Stickle Tarn

The above picture provides irrefutable evidence that the Beast of Stickle Tarn had been roaming the night before.

Pendle Witches Brew

We found a dry patch to sit whilst letting the beers chill further in a natural fridge. There is nowhere better to enjoy a beer than up here on a day like this.

Ice cold

Stickle Tarn to Pike O Blisco

Jacks Rake looked very tempting from our view point, however neither of us had crampons and there would have definitely been ice up there. We decided to take the route up 'Easy Gully' and skirt around the face of Pavey Ark.

Path to Easy Gully

The path to and up Easy Gully is well defined. There were spectacular views across Thirlmere to the Helvellyn range which were covered in snow. We soon began to encounter the white stuff ourselves.

Me with the Hevellyn range covered in snow in the background

Dark clouds began to drift in from the north, I'm pretty sure they were depositing more snow on the higher ground.

Starting to enter the freezing level

The cold and frozen summit plateau of Pavey Ark

We had originally planned to walk up to High Raise, however due to our late start, the light was beginning to fade and I decided to cut the route short and begin to descend via Harrison Stickle. Thoughts of the fire at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel also triggered the internal descent clock.

The Tarn of Doom

Being the immature 30 year old that I am, I decided to 'test' the ice on this small frozen summit tarn. I only stepped on it near to the edge but had clearly underestimated the thickness. My right foot plummeted through the sharp ice into freezing cold mud and peat below. Punishment.

Hosky looking cold

Looking North West

I'm not totally sure (maybe someone can confirm), but I think the above shows Crinkle Crags to the left and Great Gable to the far right ? In any case, the light had fallen, casting a frozen hue on the surrounding landscape. The temperature was really dropping now and the sound of a distant RAF Sea King made me wonder if people had misjudged the temperatures and conditions.

It was time to start our descent which was via the path which skirts past Harrison Stickle.

Harrison Stickle

The route down follows the slopes of Harrison Stickle back towards the NDG hotel. As can be seen above, it is steep in places and you would not want to slip to the right. On some sections, frozen puddles made it treacherous in places.

Light beginning to fade and temperatures plummeting

We soon arrived at the infamous Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. There were quite a few walkers inside and as always, the real fire was burning away in the hearth. A good selection of real ales were on tap for much needed post walk refreshment.

Hosky at the bar

After a few pints, we went back to the campsite before heading to the Stickle Barn Tavern for something to eat. It is now owned and run by the National Trust. There were a good selection of beers on tap and the fire was lit in the snug. I ordered a 'Stickle Burger' for tea which I have to say was awful. It was not cooked and the chips were cold and hard. Disappointing as I have eaten here on other occasions and the food has been fine. There was only one other person in the bar and after he had left, we got the impression that we had outstayed our welcome. The staff put all the chairs on the tables, it was only 8pm.

We left and went to the New Dungeon Ghyll hotel next door. A much better atmosphere and a good selection of beers on tap too. Unfortunately I succumbed to red wine and after four large glasses, we went back to camp.

I woke up at about 02:00 half inside and half out of my tent, I had literally collapsed whilst trying to get into my sleeping bag! My feet had frozen but it serves me right for drinking too much. It was a clear night and the temperature was well below freezing. I climbed back into my bag, zipped the tent shut and enjoyed a good nights sleep for the remainder.

All in all, a great days walking. I look forward to more snow and think that we're in for a proper Winter this year.

I'm hoping to get another walk in before Christmas, maybe in the Peak District.

Thanks for reading.