Great Langdale, December 2012

It was the first 'cold snap' of Winter. Temperatures were predicted to fall below freezing and there was even a weather warning on my iPad weather app. An ideal time to pack up the tent and head to the hills.

National Trust Great Langdale campsite

The drive up was easy as it was midweek. As is tradition, a quick stop off in Booths for breakfast meant there was a small delay in setting off. I purchased a bottle of 'Pendle Witch' beer by Moorhouses. This is usually on tap at the Pendle Inn in Barley, Lancashire and is very nice indeed. 

We arrived at the campsite just after ten, paid our dues and set up camp. The campsite was very quiet as is to be expected at this time of year. The only intrusion was from a Robin which proceeded to empty its bowels every minute using my tent as a toilet. Every year I visit an NT campsite in December and there is always a cheeky resident Robin.

Looking towards the Langdale Pikes. New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel on left

There was a stiff breeze which had a good bit of bite to it even at valley level. Exposed ears suffered immediately so it was hats on from the start today. We headed up past Stickle Barn Tavern and began the climb up following Stickle Ghyll. 

Stickle Ghyll

Path to Stickle Tarn

The path remains as in the above photograph, simple to follow to the level of Stickle Tarn. Views today were spectacular, with visibility to the Irish Sea & beyond.

Contender for Trail magazine Face of Fatigue ?

Looking back down towards Great Langdale & beyond

A little bit of scrambling on the way up provided some amusement and comedy pose opportunities......

Stickle Tarn

We soon reached a very cold Stickle Tarn. The wind chill was horrendous and the right clothing was definitely required. Anyone in the 'jeans brigade' would have quickly been in serious trouble up here.

A light dusting of snow can be seen on the tops

A quick traverse around the Tarn was needed to reach our lunch spot.

The Beast of Stickle Tarn

The above picture provides irrefutable evidence that the Beast of Stickle Tarn had been roaming the night before.

Pendle Witches Brew

We found a dry patch to sit whilst letting the beers chill further in a natural fridge. There is nowhere better to enjoy a beer than up here on a day like this.

Ice cold

Stickle Tarn to Pike O Blisco

Jacks Rake looked very tempting from our view point, however neither of us had crampons and there would have definitely been ice up there. We decided to take the route up 'Easy Gully' and skirt around the face of Pavey Ark.

Path to Easy Gully

The path to and up Easy Gully is well defined. There were spectacular views across Thirlmere to the Helvellyn range which were covered in snow. We soon began to encounter the white stuff ourselves.

Me with the Hevellyn range covered in snow in the background

Dark clouds began to drift in from the north, I'm pretty sure they were depositing more snow on the higher ground.

Starting to enter the freezing level

The cold and frozen summit plateau of Pavey Ark

We had originally planned to walk up to High Raise, however due to our late start, the light was beginning to fade and I decided to cut the route short and begin to descend via Harrison Stickle. Thoughts of the fire at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel also triggered the internal descent clock.

The Tarn of Doom

Being the immature 30 year old that I am, I decided to 'test' the ice on this small frozen summit tarn. I only stepped on it near to the edge but had clearly underestimated the thickness. My right foot plummeted through the sharp ice into freezing cold mud and peat below. Punishment.

Hosky looking cold

Looking North West

I'm not totally sure (maybe someone can confirm), but I think the above shows Crinkle Crags to the left and Great Gable to the far right ? In any case, the light had fallen, casting a frozen hue on the surrounding landscape. The temperature was really dropping now and the sound of a distant RAF Sea King made me wonder if people had misjudged the temperatures and conditions.

It was time to start our descent which was via the path which skirts past Harrison Stickle.

Harrison Stickle

The route down follows the slopes of Harrison Stickle back towards the NDG hotel. As can be seen above, it is steep in places and you would not want to slip to the right. On some sections, frozen puddles made it treacherous in places.

Light beginning to fade and temperatures plummeting

We soon arrived at the infamous Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. There were quite a few walkers inside and as always, the real fire was burning away in the hearth. A good selection of real ales were on tap for much needed post walk refreshment.

Hosky at the bar

After a few pints, we went back to the campsite before heading to the Stickle Barn Tavern for something to eat. It is now owned and run by the National Trust. There were a good selection of beers on tap and the fire was lit in the snug. I ordered a 'Stickle Burger' for tea which I have to say was awful. It was not cooked and the chips were cold and hard. Disappointing as I have eaten here on other occasions and the food has been fine. There was only one other person in the bar and after he had left, we got the impression that we had outstayed our welcome. The staff put all the chairs on the tables, it was only 8pm.

We left and went to the New Dungeon Ghyll hotel next door. A much better atmosphere and a good selection of beers on tap too. Unfortunately I succumbed to red wine and after four large glasses, we went back to camp.

I woke up at about 02:00 half inside and half out of my tent, I had literally collapsed whilst trying to get into my sleeping bag! My feet had frozen but it serves me right for drinking too much. It was a clear night and the temperature was well below freezing. I climbed back into my bag, zipped the tent shut and enjoyed a good nights sleep for the remainder.

All in all, a great days walking. I look forward to more snow and think that we're in for a proper Winter this year.

I'm hoping to get another walk in before Christmas, maybe in the Peak District.

Thanks for reading.

The Lake District ....

Why do I love the English Lake District ?

Why do you love the Lake District ? It's a question that many of you will never have pondered. Why would you.  You just do. 

Why do you enjoy beer or wine ? You just do.

Many of us have hectic, stressful jobs with little respite in the way of relaxation and time out to just be ourselves. Work, sleep, work, sleep. A monotonous ticking of life.  I for one claim that particular card. I live in a small market town in Lancashire with my wife and son. I'm lucky enough to be 'rural' (ish) so to speak, but always crave a break in the real 'outdoors'. 

I started 'climbing' from a young age. I was introduced to it by a family friend. Snowdonia was our destination during the early days, with climbs in Cwm Idwal and Chasm Face engraved in my memory. Chasm Face in particular - the Cat Walk, serving as a blunt reminder that one slip means it's all over.

I was a spritely young sixth former during the early days. Lots of spare time and with part time jobs, no rent and no mortgage meant lots of spare cash to spend on walking equipment and tents. 

A trip to Betws-Y-Coed really set in motion what was to become (I hope) a lifelong love of the outdoors. Half term, a cheap train ticket and backpacks full, we arrived in North Wales with no idea where we were going to stay. Michael (best friend), Martin and I eventually stumbled across Hendre Farm. It was a small, low key field with a dated but clean toilet and shower block. Disposable barbecues along with underage purchased vodka and lilt; we had a great time the night before 'the climb'. 

The next day, we boarded the Snowdon Ranger bus and headed to Pen-Y-Pass. I'd climbed Snowdon via the Miners Track on a few occasions. Once at the summit, we asked fellow climbers to suggest a route down that was slightly more interesting. Young, naive and unaware as to the direction we had been pointed, we edged ever closer towards Crib Goch. I can remember the whole traverse vividly. A kind walker who was crossing in the opposite direction even took our photograph on the 'Pinnacles' and kept his promise to send it on. Adrenaline pumping, massive drops either side, it was a truly terrifying and unexpected experience. We all made it down unscathed and headed back to our basecamp. This experience will never be forgotten. The story (and our survival) was discussed and exaggerated over beer and wine in the village that night and a collective love of the outdoors began. 

I spent many years after that climbing and scrambling in Snowdonia. My parents owned a chalet in Conwy just within the National Park which proved to be a useful base indeed. 

Following the passing of 'test' climbs up and into Chasm Face (I'm not a fan of bridging anymore), we climbed the Five Sisters of Kintail and were lucky enough to climb in the Knoydart, arriving by boat across a calm and tranquil Winter Loch. I've walked and climbed and mapped the Cantabrian Mountains of Spain and explored and mapped the mountains of Northern Cyprus. 

I can't even remember the first time I climbed or even visited the English Lake District. I remember vaguely happening upon the Kirkstone Pass Inn during a winter drive from Penrith. The snow was nearly at blizzard conditions, with the dim, orange lights of the Inn becoming more and more visible as I neared the summit of the pass. I never expected anything to be open at this time of the year let alone at the top of a mountain pass. Once inside, the smell of the coal fire, small windows and oak beams with blizzard raging outside and host of real ales on tap made me feel like I was 'somewhere else'. I felt like I had been transported to the 'Misty Mountains' of Tolkien, never mind being just two miles from Ambleside. 

The Kirkstone Pass Inn served as a catalyst toward my enjoyment of the Lake District. As time passed I could afford to spend more money on equipment and clothing. This meant that I could camp during increasingly worse weather. Wasdale in January is a truly harsh environment. Yet add a decent tent, awe inspiring snow covered mountains on all sides, and a trip to the atmospheric Wasdale Head Inn and it becomes and adventure to which we can all relate to from the books of our youth. 

The Lakes has something to offer everyone. Scorching summer days spent on terraces in the sun, paddling in crystal clear waters surrounded by whispering oaks & firs, crisp autumn walks or full on, ice filled expeditions into cold mountain valleys with a warming fire and ales to look forward to. Wandering woodland mountain bike trails, winding shopping streets and secret corners. Raging waterfalls and lonely, silent wind swept summit plateaus, there is simply so much to see and do. I know that when I see the familiar turn off on the M6, a weight is lifted and I feel 'at home'. My wedding day was during December in the Lakes. 

I have no idea why I have written this. I was simply looking at pictures of walks on days gone by and thought I'd at least try and put into words what I love about the English Lake District. The fact is, I can't. All I know is that in the short time I am graced with being able to enjoy life on this planet, I will. 

Next walk soon.......

As my favourite time of year to enjoy the Lake District approaches, my thoughts turn to planning the 'Winter Camps'. 

The next walk dates are the 28th & 29th of this month. I've yet to decide on the exact location, although fancy something different from the norm. 

Hopefully the weather will be very cold and dry; fingers crossed for some snow and ice on the tops. As always, a quality Lakeland Pub will play an important part...... The new North Face Mountain 25 might make an appearance following the untimely demise of my first one this year. 

Stay tuned.

October Camp 2012 ! Sykeside & Red Screes

It's been a while since my last blog. I've sold my house, bought a new house and basically been very busy indeed. A tradition has developed whereby each October, we visit Sykeside campsite in Brotherswater. The main reason for this is probably the Hobgoblin ale on tap !

Matthew setting up his tarp

Sykeside is a very conveniently placed campsite nestled at the northern foot of the Kirkstone Pass. In summer it can be very busy, but at this time of year (my favourite), you can usually expect the place to yourself bar a few solo campers. I was camping with my cousin Matthew. We arrived early and paid our fees at the inn. I'd brought along my old Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 tent. I've had this for a good few years now and I must say, it has stood up to some horrendous conditions with winds in excess of 80mph in some cases. The tent is very strong and capable of providing safe shelter on the high camps of Everest, never mind the English Lake District. Another plus of this tent is that it is very warm. It is easy to pitch although inner first.

Having pitched the tent I made a quick drive into Glenridding for some breakfast. I also popped into a small shop which had a good selection of local beers and ales, I picked a very apt "Spooky Ale" for the post walk beverage!

I had decided on Red Screes for our walk. The route is easy and is completed in no time. Our objectives on this trip were beer drinking and relaxing rather than an epic walk so this one fitted the bill perfectly.

We started off from the car park opposite the Kirkstone Pass Inn which happens to be my favourite pub in England!

Kirkstone Pass Inn

The path up Red Screes is well defined and easy to follow. Visibility was good lower down however the summit was shrouded in thick grey cloud. The temperature was noticeably colder at the summit of the pass.

Looking back toward the Inn

Height is gained quickly and we were soon leaving the Inn far behind.

Matthew with Windermere in background

Approaching the summit

There are no photos from the summit as the visibility dropped. On a clear day the views from the top are stunning in all directions. We found a spot out of the wind and ate lunch before a quick descent back to the welcoming fires of the Kirkstone Pass Inn.

Mountain Hardwear Trango 2

After warming up by the fire with a pint of Tirrils finest, we headed back to the camp site to find we had been joined by a D of E group. Having had the whole site to pitch on, they decided to........ yes; pitch next door.

Tent !

After the very nice bottle of Spooky Ale, it was time to try a few tarp setups.......

Hammock 

Matthew had decided to use this setup to sleep under. Having tried out the hammock, I have to say it is much more comfortable than any air mattress I have ever used. I have a Thermarest NeoAir which is very thick, the comfort nowhere near matches this.

The whole setup is extremely light weight and packs down very small. It would be ideal for cycle touring and wild camping but of course relies on suitable anchor points for the hammock & tarp.

It was soon time to head up to the on site pub, the Brotherswater Inn for some tea. Hobgoblin was on tap and was extremely drinkable as always. If you like the bottled variety then the draught is a completely different brew altogether. They had the illuminated tap badge for Halloween. The prices seem to have gone up here, especially for the meals which are a fairly standard but decent affair.

Feeling full and ever so slightly (i.e. struggling to walk) drunk, the call of the warm goose down sleeping bag was too hard to resist. Matthew struggled into his hammock after a quick guy line check.

The D of E group were out in force and ridiculously noisy. There were about 10 lads, I would guess 17-18 years old. Just as I was about to fall asleep, one of the imbeciles decided to shout into my tent "GOODNIGHT" repeatedly in a geordie twang.............. his friend informed him that it was 'the wrong tent' to which the imbecile shouted "I KNOW MAN". Shortly after, he incurred the verbal wrath through the flysheet and immediate calm was restored.

I awoke about 8 the next morning. The D of E group were up and shouting. Matthew had survived (and very much enjoyed) the night in the hammock.

This was a good trip, not about the walk, but just enjoying being out in the fresh Autumnal air and enjoying some nice beers in some nice Lake District Pubs. I'm not (much of) a grump, but the D of E group took the edge off somewhat in that their noise levels were unacceptable. I would have probably been the same when I was their age however.

I've got another walk coming up at the end of this month. I'm hoping for some snow and to bring out the down jackets. Plus I'll be trying out the new Mountain 25 Tent from North Face.

Thanks for reading.

Grasmere & Helm Crag

It was the big 30 for me a few months back. One of my presents was a night at the Moss Grove Organic hotel in Grasmere (recommended). I'd always fancied Helm Crag since watching 'Wainwrights Walks' so Adele and I set off for a leisurely stroll up.

Moss Grove Organic, Grasmere

After checking in, we had a walk around Grasmere before heading up to Helm Crag.

Me on road to Helm Crag from Grasmere village

Spring Lamb

I'd never done this walk before and used the Motion X GPS app on my iPhone to get an idea of the routes up. The app works well as long as you have access to 3G or wifi to download the map tiles prior to the walk.

Adele after the first steep ascent

The path was very obvious although steep and awkward in many places. Today was dry however in ice or snow, the route we had chosen up would become a nightmare without proper crampons.

Grasmere can be seen in the background. We were stood on the southern slopes of Helm Crag.

Not 100% certain but think the above picture is the 'lion' as it appears from the main road miles below. There is a smaller rock referred to as the 'lamb' hence the nickname for Helm Crag, the Lion & The Lamb

Me looking across to the Eastern Fells

Del and I on the summit

Great views toward Rydal

Travellers Rest Inn

Looking back down to the Travellers Rest. This is on my list of places to stay, maybe a contender for the Grasmere Guzzlers in September !

The majority of the lower paths were as above. Tricky & laborious to descend and probably a nightmare when wet.

All in all this was a quick and pleasant walk. Easily attainable and not technical in the slightest. It probably took about an hour and a half to get up and down which meant we had plenty of time to head to Tweedies Bar for a few hours to cool off !