Tuesday 4 December 2012

Great Langdale, December 2012

It was the first 'cold snap' of Winter. Temperatures were predicted to fall below freezing and there was even a weather warning on my iPad weather app. An ideal time to pack up the tent and head to the hills.




National Trust Great Langdale campsite
The drive up was easy as it was midweek. As is tradition, a quick stop off in Booths for breakfast meant there was a small delay in setting off. I purchased a bottle of 'Pendle Witch' beer by Moorhouses. This is usually on tap at the Pendle Inn in Barley, Lancashire and is very nice indeed. 

We arrived at the campsite just after ten, paid our dues and set up camp. The campsite was very quiet as is to be expected at this time of year. The only intrusion was from a Robin which proceeded to empty its bowels every minute using my tent as a toilet. Every year I visit an NT campsite in December and there is always a cheeky resident Robin.

Looking towards the Langdale Pikes. New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel on left
There was a stiff breeze which had a good bit of bite to it even at valley level. Exposed ears suffered immediately so it was hats on from the start today. We headed up past Stickle Barn Tavern and began the climb up following Stickle Ghyll. 

Stickle Ghyll

Path to Stickle Tarn
The path remains as in the above photograph, simple to follow to the level of Stickle Tarn. Views today were spectacular, with visibility to the Irish Sea & beyond.


Contender for Trail magazine Face of Fatigue ?
Looking back down towards Great Langdale & beyond

A little bit of scrambling on the way up provided some amusement and comedy pose opportunities......

Stickle Tarn
We soon reached a very cold Stickle Tarn. The wind chill was horrendous and the right clothing was definitely required. Anyone in the 'jeans brigade' would have quickly been in serious trouble up here.

A light dusting of snow can be seen on the tops
A quick traverse around the Tarn was needed to reach our lunch spot.

The Beast of Stickle Tarn
The above picture provides irrefutable evidence that the Beast of Stickle Tarn had been roaming the night before.

Pendle Witches Brew

We found a dry patch to sit whilst letting the beers chill further in a natural fridge. There is nowhere better to enjoy a beer than up here on a day like this.

Ice cold
Stickle Tarn to Pike O Blisco
Jacks Rake looked very tempting from our view point, however neither of us had crampons and there would have definitely been ice up there. We decided to take the route up 'Easy Gully' and skirt around the face of Pavey Ark.

Path to Easy Gully
The path to and up Easy Gully is well defined. There were spectacular views across Thirlmere to the Helvellyn range which were covered in snow. We soon began to encounter the white stuff ourselves.

Me with the Hevellyn range covered in snow in the background


Dark clouds began to drift in from the north, I'm pretty sure they were depositing more snow on the higher ground.

Starting to enter the freezing level
The cold and frozen summit plateau of Pavey Ark

We had originally planned to walk up to High Raise, however due to our late start, the light was beginning to fade and I decided to cut the route short and begin to descend via Harrison Stickle. Thoughts of the fire at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel also triggered the internal descent clock.

The Tarn of Doom
Being the immature 30 year old that I am, I decided to 'test' the ice on this small frozen summit tarn. I only stepped on it near to the edge but had clearly underestimated the thickness. My right foot plummeted through the sharp ice into freezing cold mud and peat below. Punishment.

Hosky looking cold
Looking North West
I'm not totally sure (maybe someone can confirm), but I think the above shows Crinkle Crags to the left and Great Gable to the far right ? In any case, the light had fallen, casting a frozen hue on the surrounding landscape. The temperature was really dropping now and the sound of a distant RAF Sea King made me wonder if people had misjudged the temperatures and conditions.


It was time to start our descent which was via the path which skirts past Harrison Stickle.

Harrison Stickle


The route down follows the slopes of Harrison Stickle back towards the NDG hotel. As can be seen above, it is steep in places and you would not want to slip to the right. On some sections, frozen puddles made it treacherous in places.

Light beginning to fade and temperatures plummeting

We soon arrived at the infamous Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. There were quite a few walkers inside and as always, the real fire was burning away in the hearth. A good selection of real ales were on tap for much needed post walk refreshment.

Hosky at the bar

After a few pints, we went back to the campsite before heading to the Stickle Barn Tavern for something to eat. It is now owned and run by the National Trust. There were a good selection of beers on tap and the fire was lit in the snug. I ordered a 'Stickle Burger' for tea which I have to say was awful. It was not cooked and the chips were cold and hard. Disappointing as I have eaten here on other occasions and the food has been fine. There was only one other person in the bar and after he had left, we got the impression that we had outstayed our welcome. The staff put all the chairs on the tables, it was only 8pm.

We left and went to the New Dungeon Ghyll hotel next door. A much better atmosphere and a good selection of beers on tap too. Unfortunately I succumbed to red wine and after four large glasses, we went back to camp.

I woke up at about 02:00 half inside and half out of my tent, I had literally collapsed whilst trying to get into my sleeping bag! My feet had frozen but it serves me right for drinking too much. It was a clear night and the temperature was well below freezing. I climbed back into my bag, zipped the tent shut and enjoyed a good nights sleep for the remainder.

All in all, a great days walking. I look forward to more snow and think that we're in for a proper Winter this year.

I'm hoping to get another walk in before Christmas, maybe in the Peak District.

Thanks for reading.