The Lake District ....

Why do I love the English Lake District ?

Why do you love the Lake District ? It's a question that many of you will never have pondered. Why would you.  You just do. 

Why do you enjoy beer or wine ? You just do.

Many of us have hectic, stressful jobs with little respite in the way of relaxation and time out to just be ourselves. Work, sleep, work, sleep. A monotonous ticking of life.  I for one claim that particular card. I live in a small market town in Lancashire with my wife and son. I'm lucky enough to be 'rural' (ish) so to speak, but always crave a break in the real 'outdoors'. 

I started 'climbing' from a young age. I was introduced to it by a family friend. Snowdonia was our destination during the early days, with climbs in Cwm Idwal and Chasm Face engraved in my memory. Chasm Face in particular - the Cat Walk, serving as a blunt reminder that one slip means it's all over.

I was a spritely young sixth former during the early days. Lots of spare time and with part time jobs, no rent and no mortgage meant lots of spare cash to spend on walking equipment and tents. 

A trip to Betws-Y-Coed really set in motion what was to become (I hope) a lifelong love of the outdoors. Half term, a cheap train ticket and backpacks full, we arrived in North Wales with no idea where we were going to stay. Michael (best friend), Martin and I eventually stumbled across Hendre Farm. It was a small, low key field with a dated but clean toilet and shower block. Disposable barbecues along with underage purchased vodka and lilt; we had a great time the night before 'the climb'. 

The next day, we boarded the Snowdon Ranger bus and headed to Pen-Y-Pass. I'd climbed Snowdon via the Miners Track on a few occasions. Once at the summit, we asked fellow climbers to suggest a route down that was slightly more interesting. Young, naive and unaware as to the direction we had been pointed, we edged ever closer towards Crib Goch. I can remember the whole traverse vividly. A kind walker who was crossing in the opposite direction even took our photograph on the 'Pinnacles' and kept his promise to send it on. Adrenaline pumping, massive drops either side, it was a truly terrifying and unexpected experience. We all made it down unscathed and headed back to our basecamp. This experience will never be forgotten. The story (and our survival) was discussed and exaggerated over beer and wine in the village that night and a collective love of the outdoors began. 

I spent many years after that climbing and scrambling in Snowdonia. My parents owned a chalet in Conwy just within the National Park which proved to be a useful base indeed. 

Following the passing of 'test' climbs up and into Chasm Face (I'm not a fan of bridging anymore), we climbed the Five Sisters of Kintail and were lucky enough to climb in the Knoydart, arriving by boat across a calm and tranquil Winter Loch. I've walked and climbed and mapped the Cantabrian Mountains of Spain and explored and mapped the mountains of Northern Cyprus. 

I can't even remember the first time I climbed or even visited the English Lake District. I remember vaguely happening upon the Kirkstone Pass Inn during a winter drive from Penrith. The snow was nearly at blizzard conditions, with the dim, orange lights of the Inn becoming more and more visible as I neared the summit of the pass. I never expected anything to be open at this time of the year let alone at the top of a mountain pass. Once inside, the smell of the coal fire, small windows and oak beams with blizzard raging outside and host of real ales on tap made me feel like I was 'somewhere else'. I felt like I had been transported to the 'Misty Mountains' of Tolkien, never mind being just two miles from Ambleside. 

The Kirkstone Pass Inn served as a catalyst toward my enjoyment of the Lake District. As time passed I could afford to spend more money on equipment and clothing. This meant that I could camp during increasingly worse weather. Wasdale in January is a truly harsh environment. Yet add a decent tent, awe inspiring snow covered mountains on all sides, and a trip to the atmospheric Wasdale Head Inn and it becomes and adventure to which we can all relate to from the books of our youth. 

The Lakes has something to offer everyone. Scorching summer days spent on terraces in the sun, paddling in crystal clear waters surrounded by whispering oaks & firs, crisp autumn walks or full on, ice filled expeditions into cold mountain valleys with a warming fire and ales to look forward to. Wandering woodland mountain bike trails, winding shopping streets and secret corners. Raging waterfalls and lonely, silent wind swept summit plateaus, there is simply so much to see and do. I know that when I see the familiar turn off on the M6, a weight is lifted and I feel 'at home'. My wedding day was during December in the Lakes. 

I have no idea why I have written this. I was simply looking at pictures of walks on days gone by and thought I'd at least try and put into words what I love about the English Lake District. The fact is, I can't. All I know is that in the short time I am graced with being able to enjoy life on this planet, I will. 

Next walk soon.......

As my favourite time of year to enjoy the Lake District approaches, my thoughts turn to planning the 'Winter Camps'. 

The next walk dates are the 28th & 29th of this month. I've yet to decide on the exact location, although fancy something different from the norm. 

Hopefully the weather will be very cold and dry; fingers crossed for some snow and ice on the tops. As always, a quality Lakeland Pub will play an important part...... The new North Face Mountain 25 might make an appearance following the untimely demise of my first one this year. 

Stay tuned.

October Camp 2012 ! Sykeside & Red Screes

It's been a while since my last blog. I've sold my house, bought a new house and basically been very busy indeed. A tradition has developed whereby each October, we visit Sykeside campsite in Brotherswater. The main reason for this is probably the Hobgoblin ale on tap !

Matthew setting up his tarp

Sykeside is a very conveniently placed campsite nestled at the northern foot of the Kirkstone Pass. In summer it can be very busy, but at this time of year (my favourite), you can usually expect the place to yourself bar a few solo campers. I was camping with my cousin Matthew. We arrived early and paid our fees at the inn. I'd brought along my old Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 tent. I've had this for a good few years now and I must say, it has stood up to some horrendous conditions with winds in excess of 80mph in some cases. The tent is very strong and capable of providing safe shelter on the high camps of Everest, never mind the English Lake District. Another plus of this tent is that it is very warm. It is easy to pitch although inner first.

Having pitched the tent I made a quick drive into Glenridding for some breakfast. I also popped into a small shop which had a good selection of local beers and ales, I picked a very apt "Spooky Ale" for the post walk beverage!

I had decided on Red Screes for our walk. The route is easy and is completed in no time. Our objectives on this trip were beer drinking and relaxing rather than an epic walk so this one fitted the bill perfectly.

We started off from the car park opposite the Kirkstone Pass Inn which happens to be my favourite pub in England!

Kirkstone Pass Inn

The path up Red Screes is well defined and easy to follow. Visibility was good lower down however the summit was shrouded in thick grey cloud. The temperature was noticeably colder at the summit of the pass.

Looking back toward the Inn

Height is gained quickly and we were soon leaving the Inn far behind.

Matthew with Windermere in background

Approaching the summit

There are no photos from the summit as the visibility dropped. On a clear day the views from the top are stunning in all directions. We found a spot out of the wind and ate lunch before a quick descent back to the welcoming fires of the Kirkstone Pass Inn.

Mountain Hardwear Trango 2

After warming up by the fire with a pint of Tirrils finest, we headed back to the camp site to find we had been joined by a D of E group. Having had the whole site to pitch on, they decided to........ yes; pitch next door.

Tent !

After the very nice bottle of Spooky Ale, it was time to try a few tarp setups.......

Hammock 

Matthew had decided to use this setup to sleep under. Having tried out the hammock, I have to say it is much more comfortable than any air mattress I have ever used. I have a Thermarest NeoAir which is very thick, the comfort nowhere near matches this.

The whole setup is extremely light weight and packs down very small. It would be ideal for cycle touring and wild camping but of course relies on suitable anchor points for the hammock & tarp.

It was soon time to head up to the on site pub, the Brotherswater Inn for some tea. Hobgoblin was on tap and was extremely drinkable as always. If you like the bottled variety then the draught is a completely different brew altogether. They had the illuminated tap badge for Halloween. The prices seem to have gone up here, especially for the meals which are a fairly standard but decent affair.

Feeling full and ever so slightly (i.e. struggling to walk) drunk, the call of the warm goose down sleeping bag was too hard to resist. Matthew struggled into his hammock after a quick guy line check.

The D of E group were out in force and ridiculously noisy. There were about 10 lads, I would guess 17-18 years old. Just as I was about to fall asleep, one of the imbeciles decided to shout into my tent "GOODNIGHT" repeatedly in a geordie twang.............. his friend informed him that it was 'the wrong tent' to which the imbecile shouted "I KNOW MAN". Shortly after, he incurred the verbal wrath through the flysheet and immediate calm was restored.

I awoke about 8 the next morning. The D of E group were up and shouting. Matthew had survived (and very much enjoyed) the night in the hammock.

This was a good trip, not about the walk, but just enjoying being out in the fresh Autumnal air and enjoying some nice beers in some nice Lake District Pubs. I'm not (much of) a grump, but the D of E group took the edge off somewhat in that their noise levels were unacceptable. I would have probably been the same when I was their age however.

I've got another walk coming up at the end of this month. I'm hoping for some snow and to bring out the down jackets. Plus I'll be trying out the new Mountain 25 Tent from North Face.

Thanks for reading.

Grasmere & Helm Crag

It was the big 30 for me a few months back. One of my presents was a night at the Moss Grove Organic hotel in Grasmere (recommended). I'd always fancied Helm Crag since watching 'Wainwrights Walks' so Adele and I set off for a leisurely stroll up.

Moss Grove Organic, Grasmere

After checking in, we had a walk around Grasmere before heading up to Helm Crag.

Me on road to Helm Crag from Grasmere village

Spring Lamb

I'd never done this walk before and used the Motion X GPS app on my iPhone to get an idea of the routes up. The app works well as long as you have access to 3G or wifi to download the map tiles prior to the walk.

Adele after the first steep ascent

The path was very obvious although steep and awkward in many places. Today was dry however in ice or snow, the route we had chosen up would become a nightmare without proper crampons.

Grasmere can be seen in the background. We were stood on the southern slopes of Helm Crag.

Not 100% certain but think the above picture is the 'lion' as it appears from the main road miles below. There is a smaller rock referred to as the 'lamb' hence the nickname for Helm Crag, the Lion & The Lamb

Me looking across to the Eastern Fells

Del and I on the summit

Great views toward Rydal

Travellers Rest Inn

Looking back down to the Travellers Rest. This is on my list of places to stay, maybe a contender for the Grasmere Guzzlers in September !

The majority of the lower paths were as above. Tricky & laborious to descend and probably a nightmare when wet.

All in all this was a quick and pleasant walk. Easily attainable and not technical in the slightest. It probably took about an hour and a half to get up and down which meant we had plenty of time to head to Tweedies Bar for a few hours to cool off !

Buttermere & Haystacks, March 2012

I've been busy for a few weeks so unable to post a new blog until now. Having visited Buttermere for the first time last year, I vowed to come back and climb Haystacks. Last March we stayed at Syke Farm camp site, the location was excellent so I decided that this would be our base again.

The weather was great and the tent was soon pitched next to the small stream.

Vango Equinox 350

Time to fill up the bladder

Bags were soon packed and it was off to fill up the water bladders prior to the start of the walk. I had chosen a simple route up to Haystacks which would take us along the shore of Buttermere and up to Scarth Gap.

The Fish Hotel

We passed the 'Fish' and approached Buttermere. It was lamb season !

Views across Buttermere toward Fleetwith Pike

The weather was beginning to turn as we followed the lake side path toward Haystacks.

Looking back in the direction of Crummock Water

The path up to Scarth Gap. The flanks of Haystacks on the left

The temperature had now dropped and it began to sleet, this was classic changeable Lakeland weather.

Cold & increasingly wet

View from Haystacks summit

Having completed the interesting scramble to the summit of Haystacks, it was off to Innominate Tarn for lunch.

Innominate Tarn

It was very busy on top despite the above picture so we had a look around to find a quiet spot to eat lunch.

A fitting beverage for the location

We found a great spot with views over Ennerdale to Pillar. Now, where is my pipe .......

A quick bowl of cherry & vanilla

Time to head back down

We stayed and admired the views for an hour before starting our descent back into Buttermere.

Wild camp spot

On our way down, we spotted this wild camp. I got a bit jealous at this point but thoughts of a few pints in the Fish & Bridge soon solved that.

The atmospheric Buttermere Pines

A light dusting of icy hail had settled on Fleetwith Pike

The weather was now in complete contrast to the start of our walk. It had been raining solidly for a few hours and I was hoping for some sun to dry off our gear.

Tunnel through the rock along the path back to Buttermere

Strange mists in the tunnel........ Spooky

The Bridge Hotel

Walk done it was time to dry off in the pub. We paid a visit to the walkers bar of the Bridge Hotel. A nice place with good food, beer and a relaxed friendly atmosphere.

After an initial few pints, a quick change of clothes back at the tents and we returned for a proper drinking session.

The Fish Hotel

High Stile Ridge from the Bridge Hotel beer garden

This was a good trip. The weather was not the best but added to what was an atmospheric walk up to Haystacks.

Admiring the view from the 'Bridge'

We stayed at the Bridge for something to eat and filled up on real ales of which there are a decent selection.

I'm heading to Grasmere with Adele at the weekend. We will be climbing Helm Crag so that will be my next post. Thanks for reading.

Next Blog.... Haystacks

No updates for a while as I have been very busy and am currently in St Ives ! The next blog will be a trip to Buttermere & Haystacks.

Wild Camping, Bowfell

Our exclusive view

It was time to bring out the one man tents and plan a wild camp. I was and still am, suffering from a horrendous cold. 'Man Flu' may be a more apt description depending on how you feel about these things. I had a last minute change of mind and was going to head out to a National Trust Campsite, however Matthew told me to take some pills and get on with it.

I scoured the maps and came up with Angle Tarn on Bowfell. There seemed to be quite a few potential pitch sites around the Tarn.

I was using the Vango Helium 100SL for my tent. Matthew opted for his Gelert Solo. Both were to be tested to their absolute limits.

I checked the weather via the very useful Met Office Twitter page. The forecast was to be a dry start, becoming gradually windier and wetter towards the evening. That was to be a massive understatement.

As always on a wild camp, I intended to take as little as possible. I managed to get my pack size and weight to a respectable level.

My world

I was meeting Matthew in Booths, Windermere. On arrival, I had fifteen minutes to spare so a wander round the aisles added a few kilos to my pack weight in the form of a bottle of Shiraz and Coniston Bluebird. There was also the amusing spectacle of the general manager being 'arrested' for charity by the local Constabulary in order to raise funds for the air ambulance.

Matthew arrived and a £3.95 four item breakfast was in order. A quick stop in Ambleside to pick up an extra Wayfarer meal and we were soon on the road to Great Langdale.

Hobgoblin at the Stickle Barn Tavern

It was impossible to drive past the Stickle Barn Tavern without popping in to sample some beer. Matthew and I both opted for a Hobgoblin. Lovely in draft form and very different from its bottled counterpart. The early morning sun was quite warm and there were quite a few people sat outside.

New Dungeon Ghyll hotel from Sticklebarn

It would have been easy to spend a few hours sat here, however we needed to find somewhere suitable to park and make a start. There was space in the lay by near the Rossett Bridge and soon we were walking towards the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

Start of the walk, Matthew weighed down !

Matthew had never visited the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel before so it was only right that I introduced him to this particular Lakeland Gem.

Old Peculiar at the Old Dungeon Ghyll

Two pints of Old Peculiar and we were off. We followed the path from the Dungeon Ghyll, part of the Cumbria Way towards Bowfell. This was a classic glacial valley with steep imposing peaks on all sides.

The weather was gradually worsening, grey clouds began to drift across the formerly blue sky. The wind was also beginning to pick up.

Matthew heading into the valley head

We crossed over the beck and headed up towards Rossett Pike which can be seen to the right of the col in the above picture.

Our route up followed a zig zag path towards the Col

Looking back down Great Langdale

Eventually, we reached the Col and were rewarded with a fine view of the flanks of Bowfell and our camp site for the night, Angle Tarn.

Angle Tarn

Some light snow had fallen on the upper most slopes. The temperature by now had fallen to two degrees. Factor  in the wind chill and it was pretty cold. We descended to the Tarn to try and find a suitable place to pitch our tents.

On reflection, this was our first mistake. Opting for the view instead of shelter ultimately led to the worst night I have ever spent under a piece of canvas in my entire life. In our defence, the wind had been blowing to from the left of the above picture, so we were afforded some protection by the slopes of the Col.

Once the tents were pitched, it was approaching 17:00. I was starting to feel very ill. I downed more medication. It began to sleet and as there was no protection, it was either a case of lie down inside the tiny tent or get very cold and wet.

The Helium 100 SL (right above pic) is too small to safely cook in. Any flare ups would immediately reduce the flimsy fabric to a shrivelled mess. I had brought my Jetboil Flash and two Wayfarers meals. I was very hungry so started up the Flash outside the tent. The wind had really picked up so I used my body as a wind shield. Gas canister performance was reduced in the cold weather and it took about 6 minutes to achieve a rolling boil. I opted for the Chilli Con Carne and Rice. This was a 'new' version with increased protein and carbohydrate. Matthew had chosen his MSR Pocket Rocket and Seagull pan set. I thought he would struggle with the lack of wind shield on an open type stove but it performed surprisingly well, on a par if not surpassing the performance of the Jetboil. He cooked up some Cous Cous & Mackerel.

With spirits slightly lifted, we turned our thoughts to reinforcing our tents. We found some suitable rocks and placed these on top of all pegging points. The supplied pegs with the Helium 100 are practically useless in all but the lightest of winds. Tonight, they would not hold on their own.

Freezing cold

Suddenly, a massive gust of wind called time on any outside of tent activity. I entered my fabric coffin and hoped the weather would pass. It began to snow and the wind and rain lashed the side of my tent at a deafening level. The gusts were so strong that my tent was blowing completely flat at times, squashing me inside. If you were claustrophobic this would have been your worst nightmare. A particularly strong gust ripped the rear peg out and the tent crumpled around me. The rain and hail stung as it slammed against the fabric and into my face. Matthew had seen what had happened and quickly helped in re-pegging and covering with the rock. I felt too ill to get out of my tent and was shivering hopelessly in my sleeping bag.

Time really dragged. The wind began to increase and I honestly thought that the tent would be destroyed. The light gradually faded and the rain and sleet grew more until it was being blown horizontally under the flysheet. The noise was deafening, the tent fabric acting like a giant diaphragm in the wind. Conversation was impossible due to the noise levels.

From about 18:00 to 03:20, I lay mostly awake hoping that the tent would hold out. Sleep was near impossible.

It was the worst night I have ever spent in a tent. Exhausted, sleep deprived, soaking wet and becoming more ill I hoped that morning would arrive soon.

Eventually, the faint morning light began to penetrate through the fabric of the tent. A quick watch check confirmed it was 05:55. My sleeping bag was damp through condensation and rain being blown in through the air vent. My head was pounding and I needed food. I couldn't face getting out of the tent so somehow managed to boil up a Wayfarers Beans & Sausages in the minuscule porch without setting myself on fire or dying from carbon monoxide poisoning.

Matthew was still awake and had not slept all night either. By some miracle it stopped raining. This was a window of opportunity to get packed away.

The massive amount of rainfall had created some new waterfalls which were not present the evening before.

Bag packed and soaking wet, I felt awful. We had a quick check around to make sure we had left no sign of our stay and set off back to Great Langdale.

Looking back towards Great Langdale

The unrelenting descent took its toll on our knees with every step, made worse by the wet and heavy packs.

I was glad to reach the valley floor and reach firm and stable ground. The walk at this point was fairly pleasant. A cool breeze helped to dry off our outer layers. We soon reached our cars and changed into some clean and dry clothes. 

I did enjoy the 'adventure' aspect of this trip. With hindsight I would have preferred a low level camp at a commercial site. 

At the time of writing this blog, it is now three days since our trip. I am suffering from full blown man flu. 

I must comment on the Gelert Solo. For a £30 tent, it performed impeccably. The low profile ensured the brunt of the wind simply flowed over. Small yes. Comfortable, probably not. If however you need to depend on shelter in the worst of conditions, I would not hesitate to recommend the Solo. My Helium 100 SL cost nearly £200, suffered a torn guy line and caught the wind like a kite. This trip also served to highlight the importance of selecting a good location in which to pitch your tent. We chose a ridiculously exposed spot, next to sloping ground. The result of which nearly ended in 3am disaster and flooded ground. 

I have no intention to repeat the above. The next wild camp will be in Summer. 

Thank you for reading. 

Next Trip: 17th & 18th March