Buttermere, March 2011

Pre Walk Stop at Thirlmere, Helvellyn behind. From left to right; Me, Michael Walsh & my uncle, Peter Cottle

In all my years walking in the Lake District, I had never paid a visit to Buttermere. Having read most of Wainwrights' Fell Guides and knowing about his final resting place on Innominate Tarn; I decided that we had to go. 

It was March, 2011. The weather was mild and we had persuaded Pete to come which would mean hilarious laughs in the Pub that night. 

Looking towards Haystacks with High Stile Ridge to the right

I had chosen Syke Farm Campsite as our base. The location was excellent, nestled in the heart of Buttermere and conveniently placed for the both the Fish and Bridge Hotel. This is one of the most scenic camp sites I had ever experienced. Facilities however were pretty poor, a small outhouse type building served as a toilet block. As always, that didn't bother me however may cause problems if you are camping with a family. 

We pitched our tent next to a stream which was very picturesque. I had brought along the Vango Equinox 350 for some extra room if the weather were to turn bad. 

We got the tent up in no time. My cousin Matthew was meeting us a bit later on so it was time to get down to serious business - beer. 

Pete in his element

Natural Fridge

This stream was literally five feet from our tent. We had left the first beers in it to cool down whilst we were putting up the tent. Now it was time to savour the first one in the fresh Lake District air whilst taking in the amazing views. Sheer relaxation. 

Heading to the Fish Hotel

With the first beers drunk, it was time to sample the local pubs. Matthew still hadn't arrived so we had some time to kill. I'm always excited to visit a new Lake District pub. Surrounded by high peaks on all sides, this was one of the most atmospheric parts of the Lakes I had visited so far. 

First Pint in the 'Fish'

As I'm writing this nearly a year on, I can't remember what this first beer was. It was nice and pale, with a lasting hoppy finish. We were however struck a blow by the barman who told us after the first pint that he was closing ! It was about 2pm ! Apparently at this time of year, there are limited opening hours, something to bear in mind if planning to eat here. The views from the pub are great, looking out across Buttermere and beyond. There is also a nice beer garden which I can imagine is extremely busy in the Summer months. 

Matthew, Pete & I

Matthew arrived and set up his tent. They can be seen in the background, the stream providing a relaxing soundtrack. It was too early to start serious drinking so we decided on a short walk to explore our surroundings. 

We headed towards Crummock Water. The steep west flanks of Mellbreak can be seen in the above picture.

Pete, with Mellbreak rising from Crummock Water

An interesting lake side copse 

Shortly after the taking of the above picture, my uncle Pete fell unceremoniously into Crummock Water in sheer panic at watching his Son in such a precarious and life threatening situation.

Clearly it was time to head back to the tents and dry off (for some of us). 

Bridge Hotel, "Walkers Bar"

With the Fish closed, we headed to our only option, the Walkers Bar of the Bridge Hotel. Very nice it was too. Slate floors, real fires and a fine selection of real ales from many local breweries. I started off with a couple of pints of Black Sheep. We were all hungry by now and the menu had a good selection of local dishes. 

After a nice evening in the pub listening to Pete's funny tales, it was time to head back to the tents. Since changing roles in my job, I have trouble with my lower back which makes sleeping on an air bed nearly impossible. That could only mean one thing, consult Pete and ask for some medication. Pete is an avid tablet fan. You name it, he has it. He recommended some dihydrocodeine 

What followed was sheer terror. I woke up an hour later drenched in sweat with a feeling that I was going to die. It was horrendous. Every time I closed my eyes it felt like I was plummeting into the depths of hell. This continued for about two hours until the effects wore off. Not recommended and wont be repeated. 

The next morning, I awoke with a sore back, having had about three hours sleep to an amazing scene:

Buttermere

It was a perfect morning. The air was cold and crisp and the above picture was the view out of my tent. 

Campers Breakfast

After a quick breakfast we set off. The route I had chosen was to head along the shores of Buttermere and climb up to the summit of High Stile. We would then walk south along the ridge to High Crag and Haystacks.

Team photo at the start

Soon we began to ascend the flanks of High Stile. We followed the path as it turned right and steeply up into  Burtness Comb.

Approaching Burtness Comb with Fleetwith Pike in the background

Southern Shore of Buttermere

Pete needed a medication stop and we took advantage of the break to take in the amazing views across Buttermere.

Crummock Water 

We soon reached the summit of High Stile

White Cove from High Stile summit

The views today were amazing with high cloud levels and excellent visibility.

Eagle Crag on the right, looking down towards Buttermere

Pillar

Looking across Ennerdale, snow still lingered in some of the gullies on the western face of Pillar

Lunch Time

We walked south along the ridge and on reaching the 744m summit of High Crag stopped for lunch. Wayfarers Beef Stew & Dumplings cooked nicely in my MSR Reactor stove.

Ennerdale Valley looking towards the Gables & Scafell group

We were rewarded with amazing views across Ennerdale looking toward Great Gable to Scafell Pike.

Haystacks

Time was running away as we had spent so long admiring the views from the ridge. Our plan had been to continue to the summit of Haystacks however it was decided that we would save this for another time. We turned left off the ridge and headed down Buttermere Fell back towards the lake path.

The Buttermere Pines

In the above picture, you can just about make out the famous 'Buttermere Pines' on the far side of the stream.

The final section of path down to lake level. Haystacks can be seen in the background. We stopped for a customary post walk beer at the Bridge Hotel. The late afternoon sun was surprisingly warm in the beer garden as we talked about the great walk we had just completed.

This remains the only time that I have visited Buttermere. It is a very atmospheric part of the Lake District and I would like to complete the ridge walk in full winter conditions. Everyone really enjoyed this walk. Excellent views, scenic camp site and good pubs made for a great experience.

It is time to plan my next trip and I feel a map of Buttermere coming out  .........

Thank you for reading